Looking for Answers about Nikon Inc. D7000?

Make sure you update Photoshop's Camera RAW plugin

IN PHOTOSHOP SELECT
HELP, THEN SELECT UPDATE. CLICK ON UPDATES FOR THE LATEST UPDATE FOR THE NIKON D7000. i DID NOT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS WITH CAMERA RAW AFTER THAT

I just went through this with Nikon Support. Make sure you have the latest version of Capture NX2 to open and edit your NEF RAW images from your D7000.

I don't know what you will need to import NEF files into Photoshop. However, the software that comes with the D7000 can save the files into a different format which you can then import into Photoshop, which is what I did originally rather than trying to bring them directly into CS2. In the end I bought Corel's product for under $100 (rather than over $1000 for CS5) which allows me to edit the NEF files directly. I would imagine the question should be directed to Adobe as to how to import NEF files into Photoshop.

Download ViewNX2
http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Imaging-Software/NVNX2/ViewNX-2.html

You can also download the NEF codec for Windows
http://www.nikonimglib.com/nefcodec/

Check to make sure you have Bridge installed with your Photoshop. Bridge is what reads the RAW file format, opens a separate window and gives you the option to continue to open in photoshop. The other thing to do is make sure you have all the updates to PS.

Download the latest updates from Adobe and Capture and you should have no problems. The D7000 is a very late update for both.

Yes it does. This is a fantastic lens very sharp and very versatile; leave all your other lens at home.

Yes, the 18-200mm lens is fully compatible with the D7000

I recently purchased the D7000 along with this lens, and I can say, not only is it compatible, it is fan-tas-tic! I love its versatility. No, it's not a 2.8, but for carrying one lens, this cannot be beat.

All DX lenses are compatible. That does not mean that pictures will come sharp in all of them, even if the lenses are the high end ones. It's a very common issue that cameras might need to get calibrated for different specific lenses, and it's something that drive many photographers nuts because some pictures come out good and some not!
So if you are getting soft focus in some pictures don't blame yourself, blame Nikon for not explaining this issue clearly and not offering easy-to-find resources to corrected.
My opinion based on my professional experience.

Yes, I have that same camera/lens combo and it works great.

I have shot similar images of wine bottles and glasses with the 105mm nikkor micro and it works very well. Any of the nikkor micro lenses should give your great control of DOF, it all depends on the angle of view you want to include, in other words how much of a background do you want in your image? If lots then, use a wider micro, if you want the least background (i.e. tight compression) then the that extreme would be best served wit the 200mm micro nikkor. The 105 is a great all around micro and you can get extreme blur/bokeh to reduce the attention to a background if you have more than you like.

If you need to get extremely creative and tricky with DOF and have a larger lens budget then consider a tilt shift models.

if you need a limited DOF, you'll need a slight tele. you'll also need brightness, so an f/2.8 is a must. i'd suggest looking around used 90-180mm primes with at least f/2.8. micro-nikkors are also known for their sharpness, so maybe a 90mm f/2.8 micro-nikkor, using manual focus, would be the best, IMHO.

Don't underestimate the 18-55 f/3.5- kit lens. You could also consider a prime lens, like the 35 or 50mm f/1.8G or even wait for the new affordable macro lens that Nikon is suppose to be releasing soon, just in case you really want to get some of the details.

Hi, Try PC-E lens. 45 & 85 PC-E is really great product shot lens you can control perspective & DOF of your images, I'm using it every day because I'm product photographer. (Camera & Lens)

You'll probably get as many opinions as there are lenses. F22 will give you a very DEEP depth of field. You can control the depth of field yourself. Rule of Thumb: "Higher number on the Fstop equals deeper DOF". You didn't specify how close you want to be, or how the shots are going to be composed, or if you're going to be in a tightly-controlled studio setting with multiple flashes arranged around the subject, so it's a little hard to say. My go to lens is the Nikkor F2.8 17-55. It's crisp, tough, and versatile. With the F2.8 that remains constant across the zoom range, you don't have to worry about your DOF changing as you zoom in and out, like you do on other lenses. The next best lens would be a "prime" lens of 35mm or 24mm. If you're in a studio environment this can be a bit challenging for framing the shot because without the zoom you need to move the table/armature or your camera's tripod (unless you have one of those cool studio tripods that lets you move the camera in the horizontal plane) to frame the shot appropriately.

You most certainly can use the 80-200mm f/2.8 lens on the D7000

I have been using the 80-200mm f/2.8D ED with the D7000 for the past month and it works fine.

I have a D80, D90 and a D7000 which the lens fits perfectly! I not had any problems.

I am pretty sure!!

I agree, reset the camera or re-adjust the colors. It sounds like you may have inadvertantly changed the color settings from within the camera. I just purchased this camera and I have to tell you, I love it. Plane and simple... The menus are at first confusing but once you start playing around and learning all the features, it will be like second nature. You can remove the battery and let the camera sit for a period of time to discharge the onboard memory. This may reset the camera for you. Good Luck and keep on shooting!

Hi Keith, I thought perhaps I selected vivid, but it's not set to that. I am viewing them on the camera and then they download to Nikon NX2 this way as well, I'm assuming, they would print thisway.

Depends on where the nikon service repair is.
If you have a technical support in your town, you should probably get it there, in that case, no shipping costs. I had once to bring my old d200 to repair service and got it back in 5 days. Depends also what the problem is.
Nikon is a trustworthy company, but if you have a problem, you should ask your reseller first.

I would guess this person has been in the Picture Controls section and has chosen to modify saturation and/or hue via the Vivid setting. Go to Shooting Menu > Set Picture Control > Vivid, and adjust the settings to neutral.

Hi Folks,
I am the original person who wrote this post. Sorry that I never responded. I returned said camera and there was supposed to be a body cap. The store thinks someone returned it and kept the cap. I was very concerned that dust could have gotten into the camera which of course would be a disaster. I absolutely love my camera. I am now a member of a gallery where I have my photography on exhibit. I highly recommend this camera! NIKON ROCKS!!

I'm only about a year too late for this question but my answer remains the same: YOU NEED A BODY CAP.
Some people will just stick a lens on the body and never take it off but if you are wanting to store your camera or load it for travel you are going to need that body cap to protect the mirror/image sensor from damage and dust. Camera companies provide caps for a reason. The people above me who are freaking out about you returning your camera over such a simple thing most likely don't care for there cameras and let dust get into the body of the camera. Dust will damage your camera.

I ironically never use my cap anyway but It is such a minor mistake that it is not worth making a fuss. Just call nikon and tell them what happened. I love my D7000

Really? You're returning the entire camera because of a small mistake? Yes. The bodies are supposed to come with caps. Why not just contact Nikon. I'm sure they'd be happy to send you a body cap free of charge. When my camera came from a Nikon dealer, it was missing the plug for the charger. One phone call, and a few days later the plug came in the mail. You could also visit your local camera store. Camera stores often have body caps floating around they'll just give you.

Since I almost exclusively shoot air shows I think I can answer your question.

Your asking about zoom capabilities, not wide angle.

I have rented and used the Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8 along with the X1.7 or X2 teleconverter and had good success. This combination is good for reach, great for clarity and sharpness on a bright sunny day, but not so good when you do need to back out for a wide angle shot.

Next would be the Sigma 150-500mm. I used this for several years. Not quite as sharp as the above, but 100mm more reach and about the same wide angle.

I now use the Sigma (Bigma) 50-500mm and I'm very pleased with this lens.

You mentioned you want the biggest picture possible? If you want the most "view" in your photo, you will want a wide angle...something like 10-24mm is considered ultra-wide. However, if you mean the biggest picture possible in terms of image resolution, that mainly has to do with the camera body itself.

Anonymous,
What you need is a very long,100's of mm lens, and a gyroscope. Check in your local area for availability for purchase or rental.
Good Luck.
Mike

The 20 minute time limit is because of double tax increases in europe. they count the camera as a video camera and still image camera after a certain mbps on video with a time limit.

Canon cameras are only 12min. but they have different Frames per second.

this is really not a big deal unless you are doing intervews, but, time your shots inbetween questions. I can't imagine someone answering a question for 20 min.

I have not received a direct answer as to why the Nikon D7000 has a 20 minute video recording cap. I did find the following answers but, I could not find any documentation to prove their validity:

1- The 20 minute cap was set in place to prevent the camera's sensor from overheating (no proof of this)
2- The 20 minute cap was set in place to prevent higher taxes incurred. If the camera recorded longer, it would be categorized as a camcorder thus increasing taxes.
(no proof of this)

This 20 minute limitation may not hinder a person from creating feature films and short films but, this limitation does pose a problem for applications that require interviews. It would seem rude to stop a person in the middle of their story to tell them that they need to wait for you to press the record button again.

Hopefully, there will be a firmware update to remove this limitation.

Maybe in 10 years your dream will come true.

By default, there is a setting in the camera's menus which prevent the camera from taking a picture if the picture is out of focus. In some lighting conditions the camera will not be able to use the auto focus function and will not fire. You can overcome this in several ways. 1. Putting the camera in "M" and using the focus ring on the lens. 2. Changing the setting in the menu so that it will allow the camera to fire, even if it is not in focus (not recommended), turn off the auto focus function on the lens (if it has it) and on the camera (switch on the side of the lens, and a switch on the body of the camera, to the lower right of the lens as you face the front of the camera. Note: BOTH switches must be turned off at the same time to prevent damage to the lens or the camera. You should also check your metering to see if it's set correctly. There are several different metering modes which will affect your picture. Also, if memory serves me, the camera will not take a picture in M mode if the picture is going to be severely over-exposed. If, for instance, you set the photo up for a shutter speed of 1/30 and an aperture of f3.5, the camera won't fire. I have experienced this myself, and though there is nothing in the user's manual about it that I can find, I assume it's to protect the sensor and other equipment from damage.

yup, use either shutter speed (faster for underexposure, slower for overexposure), or if DOF is not an issue, change the aperture. or, change the ISO. in manual mode exposure correction is not a valid option as nothing is automatic so it's entirely up to you what settings you use.

R-10 refers to the amount of shots remaining in the buffer and has no relevance to whether the camera releases the shutter or not. If you are shooting in manual then you under expose by altering the shutter speed, the only thing that would stop the camera from firing would be if focus has not been achieved, try focusing manually.

yup, use picture control. however, i'd advise against it -- you don't get to select the channel mix. my advice: shoot in color and aim for best contrast range, then use a decent video editing software and use a filter to do the b&w conversion. remember: if you shoot b&w, you can't go back and adjust the channel mix, neither can you change your mind afterwards if you wanted that shot in color. so: use neutral picture controls, shoot the video in color with a decent dynamic range, then mess it up later in post-prod. :)

Agree with KeithD. B&W can be taken by setting Picture Control to Monochrome (info display will show "MC"). All effects in "Retouch" menu (in camera post-processing) are not available for video, either while taking the video or during in camera post-processing.

Yes it does, just change the picture control to monochrome.

Anonymous,
All Nikon single lens reflex camera lenses since the first one was made are compatible. If you use an older lens on a new (digital) body you will have to use manual mode to find the correct exposure and you will have to manually focus the lens.
Good Luck,
Mike

I have one and have not had any problems with it, I know some of the on line forums have reported sharpness issues, but I have not had any personally. I think it's a terrific lens, and I have both the 16-35 and 14-24.

This seems to be a wide spread problem with D7000 D800 that Nikon doesn't seems to recognize as a design fault. It would be in there interest to tell the Nikon community of the problems or what is causing it.
Cannon cameras seem to have less issues.

I have had my D7000 since 1-10-11 & have had NO spots of any kind on the sensor. That should be covered by warranty ? I love my D7000. Buster

The D7000 uses TWO SD card slots, which can be configured to store photo data in various ways. For best results, get Class 6 SD cards. Size doesn't really matter. It's a matter of personal preference. Some photographers use smaller cards so they won't lose as much data if a card fails, others use larger cards because they shoot a lot of pictures. Look in your owner's manual. There's a page there that tells you all the recommended cards and sizes.

The D7000 does not come with a SD card, I use Sandisk 8gb cards in mine and they work fine

4.78µm

The circle of confusion is the largest circle that appears as a point on a photograph...or for the purpose of the original question, what is the size in Microns of one pixel on the DX sensor for this camera??

Not knowing your skill sets and abilities it is difficult to make recommendations. Your budget is set. Good "glass" is very important and should be the bulk of the expense. The camera body is more about what your real needs are. The flexibility of the D7000 makes it more desirable for most mid level to advanced shooters. The D5100 is a great starting point. Master it with the 18-55 and 55-200. Concentrate on the basics of light and composition. Maybe take some classes at a local community college. Have fun!

I would say it really depends on how much you want to invest in the system and photography in the long run, I think that is a major factor. If you are a hobbyist and want to take better photos and don't plan on making money with this, I would agree with your friends and purchase a less expensive model and spend more on one lens (or two for more versatility).

With the D7000 you are getting more professional features, but not necessarily better images. Compared to a D5100 or even the new D3200, the ISO sensitivity is basically the same for all of them, but the D3200 actually has 24MP compared to the D7000's 16MP (introduced about 2 years ago).

Honestly for you I would recommend the D3200 and get a better lens - that is where your better image quality will come from (aside from learning proper photo-taking techniques, of course). The lens I would recommend are below, in order of preference with your budget:

1. Nikon 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S ($699 on Amazon) Yes, I know if covers less zoom than the kit lens but it is a better quality lens and your photos will generally be sharper.
2. Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S ED VR II ($849 on Amazon). A great option if you plan to shoot anything from a distance, like at a zoo.

Two other things I would buy is a good SD card, at least a 16 or 32GB, that has a 45Mb/sec transfer rate and an extra battery. These two simple things will help ensure you don't run out of space while on a trip and your camera doesn't die on you! If those things happen it doesn't matter which camera or lens you have!

The price does not include the lens. When viewing prices for this or any other camera, check out "Included Accessories". If the lens is included, it will be listed there. Nikon vendors MIGHT include a lens as part of a kit, but they will always make it clear what is included.

As answered before, no Nikon remote will start/stop video, but remote camera control softwares (like Nikon's Camera Control Pro 2), can. You'll need a computer running Apple OS or Windows (if using Windows, a tablet will also work; note that Apple iPad tablets are NOT compatible); a USB connection or a wireless connection with an optional Nikon WT-4A Wireless Transmitter attached to the D7000. Not only can you start/stop, but you'll actually have full control and viewing (both real time and recorded) capabilities.

Ctovar,
The basic D90 kit comes with a 18-55 lens that will allow you to capture wide angle and a limited amount of telephoto images.
Good Luck and enjoy.
Mike

See page 319 of your user's manual it lists all the compatible cards.

It all depends on the image quality settings you have chosen. If you are shooting RAW it has to write a very large file to your CF card. If you are shooting at the smallest basic JPG possible, you will be able to shoot many more pictures before the buffer kicks in. However, even when I tested using the smallest JPG in Continuous High mode, the buffer eventually kicked in. If you are using a small JPG file and taking a picture every second or so, then I doubt the buffer will ever kick in. Hope that helps!