Looking for Answers about Nikon Inc. D800?

Check out the fast Nikon lenses that Nikon recommends for the d800e try the 24mm f/1.4 super sharp.

The Nikon site has some good examples of moire in the D800E photographs. I initially ordered the D800E but subsequently switched to the D800 due to the problems with moire sans an AA filter. Yes, software can help in photographs but my understanding is that moire may be even more pronounced in videos and software will not touch that. I intend to use my D800 primarily for photographs but like the flexibility to also use it as a video camera. For most applications the clarity of detail will not be noticeable between the D800 and the D800E and the potential for considerable issues with moire with the D800E made the decision for me. We would all like to have everything but that is just not realistic in life.

Check out our Learn & Explore article that discusses the moire/false color issues and how to minimize them when using the D800E. http://www.nikonusa.com/Learn-And-E...

By and large Nikon is spot on in their evaluations of equipment. If you prefer to be out shooting and not at the computer adjusting images you should probably bypass the "E." I prefer shooting to tweaking images and have selected the D800 (waiting expectantly the arrival).

I'll shoot it for a few weeks before deciding which model for a second body. I prefer all bodies to be the identical when working. I'm old, the less confusion in life, the better. I'm betting that, unless you lean to huge enlargements, either model will suffice for your needs. That being the case, I'd select the less expensive model with a battery pack, fully expecting that 36.3MP will provide all the detail you'd want or need.

If you have a local Nikon dealer, rent or borrow both models and do an evaluation if you think the "low pass" might be a consideration.

50 years shooting wildlife mostly in Alaska, semi-professionally, using predominately Nikon bodies and lenses

Download the model photo taken with the D800e camera and check out her fabric outfit; there is no moire patterns at all. Many 2 1/4 backs have no anti-aliasing filter and they get along just fine. Also, if you have a problem, you can add a CapRock AA filter on the lens, or remove the problem in software.

I think you have to read Nikon's answer carefully. They save for "optimal" sharpness. I shoot medium format and if I want optimal sharpness I use a tripod. I have had the D800 for about 6 weeks and absolutely love the camera. There have been a couple of times where I had a shot that was blurry but the shots would have been blurry with any camera due to user error. The camera has a delayed exposure setting that when used with a tripod delivers the sharpest photos I have ever seen from any digital. I am primarily a Nikon guy but I do have a Canon 5D Mark II and my local camera store let me try the Canon 5D Mark III. The D800 was clearly sharper, which influenced my decision.
I really think the answer to your question though is dependent upon the type of photography you do. I shoot landscapes primarily and the D800 excells in this area of photography. I have found that for other types of photography that if I dial the image quality down to medium that I am still getting 20+ megapixels. I really like the versatility of the D800.
Bottom line is that if your technique is good you should not have any problems. If your technique is not good a little patience and practice you can improve your technique and have some awesome photos.
Good luck.

No worries.
The D800 has roughly the same pixel pitch as the D7000 and as far as blur is concerned it will behave similarly. As with ANY camera, the less motion there is during the exposure, the sharper it will be. Nikon's point is that in order to extract the greatest possible detail that the sensor is able to produce, a greater degree of care is required. If you take a photo with a D800 and shrink the image down to 16mp or 12mp or whatever, the amount of blur would be the same as if the image was taken with a lower resolution camera. If you are making 8 x 10 prints you don't need to treat the D800 any different than your current DSLR. If on the other hand you are printing at 40 x 60 inches, then a beefy weighted tripod, mirror up and a remote release will allow you to obtain the best images possible. Think of it this way, the amount of blur is no greater, but the sensor is capable of resolving it to a greater degree. Practically speaking, the added ability to resolve blur that is caused by camera motion needs to be addressed if you want to get the best results from large prints. The other place it might become noticeable is when cropping.... A 6mp image from a D70 might very well show less camera motion induced blur than a 6mp crop from a D800. However, if the D800 image is taken such that the 36mp D800 image has the same viewfinder coverage as the D70 image, the 36mp D800 will absolutely blow the D70 image away. In this case you might find some blur in details that cannot be resolved with the D70, and the elimination of THAT blur may require better technique. In summary, the D800 will not take pictures that have more blur than what you may be accustomed to, but it will allow you to resolve more detail; and that detail may have a component of blur.

Unfortunately the Nikon answer simply re-creates the uncertainty by seeming to say that blur will be amplified by this camera because of its high detail. It suggests that blur would not be as noticeable as with a camera of lower definition. So more care will have to be given, especially if you want to enlarge the image significantly.

As a fine point, you cannot expect the sharpest images with almost any camera at low to moderate shutter speeds without the use of a tripod or other steadying device and even mirror lock up.

Thanks. However, I didn't interpret the guide in the way you did. The example they showed employs that shutter speed, and logically it might make sense, but I get the feeling (from the NIkon team's answer as well) it is an issue with the camera and your technique has to be flawless. The biggest issue for me is this, followed by lower ISO than I expected. The camera's features otherwise seem fantastic. I have been a lifelong Canon user, and I was ready to switch, but obviously have some concerns.

If you look closely at the guide, the blur is only a possibility when shooting at shutter speeds of 1/15-1s. The Nikon D800 is just as hand-holdable as a D3, D700, D3S or any other DSLR.

You already invest too many dollars on a camera to buy any lens, if you dont have lens for nikon, and you want a daily use lens, I'll go with the new 24-85mm VR F3.5-4.5, it will do the job and would give you a nice range for creativity, and the iso would help you on low ligth situations. From this point review what you want to do with your equipment to buy the next one.

I've been using the 28-300 mm which I think is my best one. It costs around $1100, but shop around.
AL

I'm assuming by saying "the best lens" for YOU (not necessarily for others) would be one walkaround lens you could use for 90% of your shooting needs - say a 24-70mm or 24-120mm zoom. For $1200 or less you have these options from Nikon, in order of preference for YOU:

Nikon 24-120mm f/4G ED VR. I think this would serve your needs best (but it's about $1300)
Nikon 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR (only about $600)
Nikon 28mm f/1.8G AF-S (about $700, if you really want a wide, prime lens less than $1200, but not as useful if this is your only lens)

If you are willing to go to a third-party lens, then you could consider these:

Tamron SP 24-70mm Di VC USD (about $1300, a little high but has "VC" - image stabilization)
Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 IF EX DG HSM (about $825 but no image stabilization)

Good luck and good shooting,
James

Sorry, but this is no way to go about choosing a lens!

Start by deciding exactly what you plan to photograph, and then research the lenses that are best suited to your needs. And please don't set an arbitrary limit on what you're planning to spend -- there are many options both more and less expensive than your quoted amount.

Most importantly, choose wisely. The D800 will maximize the qualities of whatever lens you mount on it -- if the qualities are poor, then your final product will suffer! Many people advise investing the greater amount in lenses over the camera body, and this is definitely something to consider very carefully!

P mode, along with auto ISO and auto focus, should be as good as any other Auto mode.

S, A, and P modes ARE automatic.

In S mode, you pick what shutter you want and the camera picks the aperture.

In A mode you pick the aperture, and the camera picks the shutter.

In P mode you don't have to pick anything. You can hand it to a friend and it will automatically adjust the aperture and shutter.

And if you put it in Auto ISO mode, it will adjust ISO automatically, as well.

The flash is never automatic with the D800. If you want flash you pop it up and it fires.

Why does nikon not put an auto function on these high end cameras? It is so hard to hand your camera to someone on vacation and tell them to point and shoot a shot of you if there is no true auto. very frustrating.

Thanks for the feedback. I finally went to a dealer and tried the 24 mm tilt/shift on a D800. It works fine. I bought a D800E and a Nikkor 24mm tilt/shift. I have been using them happily together for several months.

Not sure what Nikon staff is thinking.

Actually, the answer from the Nikon staff is not quite correct. The D800 is capable of using the PCE lenses (commonly known as the Tilt Shift lenses). For the 24mm version there can be some contention of the PCE lens when being used in Portrait mode, but that is worked around very easily by rotating the lens in the opposite direction. Other than that one issue the PCE lenses from Nikon are fully compatible with the Nikon D800. Just do some research on the internet to see the number of people who blindly repeat the 'no' answer and then the few people who have actually used the PCE lenses with a D800. It is very workable and, with the great D800, it is WELL WORTH THE EFFORT.

I see Nikon has now removed the MC-dc2 from the compatible accessories list on this site. So I guess the answer is no, not compatible.

Joe,
Thanks for responding. I should have been more specific about IR. I meant internal receiver IR using the ML-L3. Less cumbersome, better performance in cold weather and if I lose the remote fob it's cheap to replace. Still wondering about corded options though.

If you have an Express Slot, you can get a USB 3.0 adapter.

1 LAC 130976 LaCie 130976 USB 3.0 ExpressCard/34 Notebook Expansion Card

If you are concerned that you would not be able to interface with the USB 2.0, here's the answer from the Nikon D800 brochure:

"High-speed data transfer with USB 3.0

For a more productive tethered and transfer workflow, the
D800 is compatible with USB 3.0. When connected to
equipment featuring USB 2.0, speed is reduced to that of
USB 2.0."

Hi Beso,

I have my name on local dealers wait lists, as well as have pre-ordered online. From calling dealers it is clear that they are getting limited numbers, but fulfilling them based on their wait lists, so that's why nobody ever has stock on hand, because the wait lists are "the longest they have ever seen." This clearly shows that Nikon is doing a poor job getting stock to dealers, but perhaps they are not accustomed to success on this level.

This information probably does not help you, but realize that there are many many people in the same position as you, and it will all work out eventually.

NIKON, please bump up your production to accomodate the demand for this product, as well as the D800E which is even more difficult to get!

Nikon's pat answer is they are shipping the cameras, check with you authorized dealer. Well, Nikon may be shipping them but no one seems to have them available; even for those of us who pre-ordered several months ago. Where do you think they are shipping them to? Certainly it does not appear they are being shipped to anywhere in the developed world.

My right to left focus points work correctly but far left to right for the first few points are pathetic. The focus straightens out after about the fourth point left to right. Others seem to work OK but it would certainly benefit Nikon to contact the new owners and explain their position.

There are many reputable sources that have seen and documented this problem on some, but not all, D800 bodies. Please, Nikon, issue a press release or official statement on what causes this problem and how it is fixed. I really want to buy a D800 but $3000 (SRP, USA) is too much to risk with a chance of having a camera that has focus problems. I would really like an official definitive statement from Nikon about this issue. Until then I am on the sidelines. If it takes too long I may have to shop elsewhere.

The left focus issue has been fixed for some time (months) for the cameras which are coming from the factory. The fix from the Nikon certified repair facilities are effective and will hold up as well as any camera coming from the factory due to how the fix is performed. This was a regrettable issue with some of the initial cameras coming from the factory, a quality control issue. But NIkon is a great company and they stand behind their products and support their users very well.
If you have not already, I would suggest that you go ahead and purchase your D800. If you are concerned about the focus issue there are several sites with instructions on how to test it to verify if you have an issue. I tested mine (purchases 6 months ago) and it does not have the left focus issue.

I doubt man. Nikon may fix it now and you will be happy. Then if it happen again you will land-up paying for shipping with insurance and service because warranty will be over by then......

I am an engineer and sincerely believe through my experience that once a product is opened then it is done and for sure you will have to open it again for same or other reason. One can not bring the same quality of workmanship when compared to factory quality be it CAMERA or CAR.

I have faulty piece and believe me and I know it feel you see your hard earned $3k burnt.

Yes, $2,700 - $3,000 is a lot of money for a camera. But this camera has the features and performance to justify that price.

If you compare it to it's closest competitor, the Canon 5D Mark III, the Nikon D800 is very reasonable. By comparison, the Canon model is overpriced at $3,300-$3,500, about $500 more than the D800. To me, in this class of camera, the D800 is clearly a better value.

Well, it depends upon where you are in photography. If you are just starting out and not sure if photography is for you, then maybe not. But, if you want a great full frame camera which takes fantastic pictures then this camera will perform for you.

For me, it is worth every penny I paid for it.

Wow!!!!
It looks like "Anonymous" never made more than 9999 shorts by Nikon DSLR camera.
If he will made it, he will know that after 9999 the next short # will start from 0001.

welcome to Pro "Anonymous"

It is easy. Just download your images to any PC. Your file name includes the number of pictures taken.

The D800 "Prodcut Brochure" (see link above on this page) has a complete listing of file size projections

I think the question is about is there any raw setting that let create raw an image with less than 36 Mpix. Example recording 18 Mpix by some algorithe who make average of some pixel...

It look like the answer is no. And a raw withouth all pixel will not be a raw. 70 Mo by raw will calm the index for some.

I guess if someone want less pixel in there raw they should probably shoot in medium (or small) tiff mode...

Here's a quote from a CameraLabs article on the Nikon D800:

"In terms of the buffer, Nikon quotes 16, 17 or 20 uncompressed, lossless or compressed RAW files respectively in the 36 Megapixel / 14 bit mode. JPEG shooters can capture up to 56 Large Fine 36 Megapixel JPEGs in a burst, and if you're willing to increase the compression or reduce the resolution, you can increase this to 100 frames."

Since I do not have a camera like the D7000, I am not exactly sure what you are referring to with “U1” & “U2.” However, from what you are describing, I think it is what Nikon refers to as” Shooting Menu Banks.” The user’s manual for the D800 describes these on pages 269 and 270. They permit frequently used settings to be stored in Banks A, B, C, and D. Of course, you have to configure each Bank to your own desires.

(You can now download a “PDF” of the manual under the support section of this site.)

We now have some more information on the D800/D800E product page on the website, as well as this article in Learn & Explore that discusses the workflow necessary when using the D800E, to reduce false color and moire. http://www.nikonusa.com/Learn-And-E...

Check out our Learn & Explore article: http://www.nikonusa.com/Learn-And-E.... It discusses the workflow needed when using the D800E to keep from getting moire and false color in your images.

In the USA, it will be shipping on March 21 or 22 according to those who have pre-ordered on Amazon or BH Photo.

Check out our article on Moire/False Color and the role of the optical low pass filter in D-SLRs: http://www.nikonusa.com/Learn-And-E...